Nach Osten Towards East |
Die Transsibirische Eisenbahn ist einmalig: 9288 km Schienen und 7 Zeitzonen durchfährt die Bahn auf dem Weg von Moskau nach Vladivostok - es gibt keine Zugstrecke in Europa , die sich damit vergleichen ließe. Bereits bei der Planung unserer Reise haben wir uns gewünscht einen Teil dieser Strecke selbst zu "erfahren". Schon bald haben wir uns für die Transmongolische Strecke von Moskau (Russland), mit Zwischenstopp in Irkutsk am Baikalsee, über Ulan Baatar (Mongolei) nach Peking (China) entschieden. Ursprünglich wollten wir an verschiedenen Zwischenstationen in Russland aussteigen und dazwischen radeln. Da der Transport unserer Räder im Zug jedoch stets kompliziert ist und uns unser Host Sascha geraten hat, mehr Zeit am Baikalsee zu verbringen, sind wir von unserem eigentlichen Plan abgekommen. So sind uns zwar Perm, die Eishöhle in Kungur und Ekaterinenburg entgangen, aber durch die Nonstopfahrt nach Irkutsk haben wir nicht nur die knappe Reisezeit (begrenzt durch unser russisches Visum), sondern auch Geld beim Fahrkartenkauf gespart. Dieses Geld haben wir dann lieber in eine bessere Wagenklasse investiert. Dirk hatte bei der Fahrt von St.Petersburg einen Blick in die 3.Klasse (der Platzkartnyj) geworfen, bei der 54 Personen in einem Waggon ohne Abteilunterteilung schlafen. Dies war uns, vor allem auch in Hinblick auf unsere 10 Radtaschen zu beengt und unbequem. Für knapp 12000 Rubel (sprich 300 Euro) pro Person schlafen wir jetzt in zwei Betten (übereinander) im Viererabteil.
Am Abend wird gekocht Dinner preparation |
Es ist angerichtet It's ready |
Springbrunnen im Gorki Park Fountains in the Gorki Parc |
Unseren letzten Abend in Moskau verbringen wir noch einmal bei sommerlichen Temperaturen im Gorki-Park. Wir essen Blini (Eierpfannkuchen), trinken Bier und schauen den beleuchteten Föntänen des Springbrunnens zu.Während wir ein letztes Mal am Moskwa-Ufer entlang laufen, sehen wir viele Moskauer, die sich sportlich im Park betätigen, Tischtennis spielen, sowie Inliner oder Skateboard fahren.
An der Moskwa At the Moscwa river |
Eingang zum Gorki Park 'Entrance to the Gorki Parc |
Goodbye, Sasha and thanks a lot for everything! До свидания Саша и большое спасибо! |
Schwere Taschen ohne Räder Heavy luggage without bicycles |
Am Bahnhof angekommen, freuen wir uns jedoch ohne unsere Räder als Sperrgepäck problemlos einzusteigen. Mit uns im Viererabteil sitzt Wera, eine junge russische "Babuschka" (Großmutter). Sie spricht zwar nur Russisch, aber Dank unserer Vokabelliste (vielen Dank nochmal an meine Russisch-Lehrerin Elena für das Übersetzen) kommen wir dennoch schnell in Kontakt. Sobald das Eis gebrochen ist, teilen wir unseren Proviant für ein gemeinsames Mittagessen. (Deutlich in Erinnerung ist mir geblieben, dass Vera nicht verstehen konnte, was ich als Vegetarier so überhaupt esse - genauso wie sie verdutzt fragte, warum wir noch keine Kinder hätten.)
Unser Zug am Kazaner Bahnhof in Moskau Out train at the Kazan station in Moscow |
Mittagessen im Abteil Luch in our cabin |
Unser 20 Jahre alter Waggon wurde bei Halle gebaut Our 20 years old waggon was buildt in Germany |
Fensterputzen Cleaning the windows |
Willkommen in Afrika ;-) Welome to Afrika! ;-) |
Eine Schaffnerin (Provodnitza) The conducter (provodnitza) |
Im Bordrestaurant In the restaurant of the train |
Selbstverpflegung im Abteil Self-catering in our cabin |
Eine Dampflok am Bahnhof von Barabinsk A old steam engine at the Barabinsk Station |
Am Bahnhof in Novosibirsk At Novosibirsk Station |
Eindrücke aus dem Zugfenster Impression outside the train window |
Unser luxuriöses "Zweier"-Abteil Our luxury "Double"-Cabin |
Im Waggon Inside the Waggon |
78.Tag (06.08.): Moskau Perewa- Jaroslavsker Bahnhof (Fahrrradabgabe) - Kreml- Marino
79.Tag (07.08.): Marino- Markt Ljublino- Gorkipark
80.Tag (08.08.): Kazaner Bhf- Zugfahrt: Vekovka, Murom, Arzamas, Sergac
81.Tag (09.08.): Kazan, Agryz- Sarapu- Cernuska- Krasnoufimsk- Druzinino- Ekaterinenburg- Tjumen
82.Tag (10.08.): Barabinsk- Novosibirsk- Mariinsk- Kansk-Enisejsk-
83.Tag (11.08.): Ilanskaja- Tajset- Alzamaj- Nizneudinsk- Tulun- Sima
84.Tag (12.08.): Irkutsk (1:00h, 12km)
The transsibirian railroad is unique: 9288 km track through 7 timezones on the way from Moscow to Vladivostok – there is no comparable traintrack in Europe to that one. We want to take the Transmongolian way that brings us from Moscow, via Irkutsk and Ulan Bataar to Bejing. During our previous travel planning we played with the idea to cycle a piece of the distance to Irkutsk by ourself. Our Courchsurfing host Sasha from Moscow suggested to skip the cities (like Perm and Ekaterinenburg) on the way and go directly to Irkutsk and spend more time at the lake Baikal (that is restricted due to our russian visa). By going with the train directly we safed some money that we now spent in a 2nd class train ticket (instead of 3rd class).
Before we start our train travel of 3,5 days and over 5040 km to Irkutsk we have another preparation and rest-day in Moscow the next day. In the evening we prepare a dinner for us to say "thank you" to Sasha for his great hospitality. Unfortunately at this evening he has an important business meeting with dinner. So we eat the great menu by ourself. Until late evening we sit together, chatting with Sasha and his Armenian friend.
After the breakfast at the next morning Steffi and I are going to visit a main market place near Ljubliano where we want to buy big bags that can carry some of our bicycles panniers. We find them very fast and do another walk through the big market halls. The sound of rolling and tear off tape is still in our ears (they must use some 1000km of packing tape per day at this place). Our last evening in Moscow we spend in the Gorki parc next to the Moskva river. While eating Blini (pancakes) and drinking beer we watch the illuminated fountains, see many locals doing their excercise (table tennis, inline skating, skateboard) and walk along the riverbank for a last time.
On the next morning we say "Goodbye" (for the last time so far) to Sasha and walk (heavy loaded with baggage) to the underground station Marino. We immidiately miss our bicycles on which it is so easy to roll or cycle all our things. Arrived at the Kazan train station we are happy to enter the train without any trouble (we do not have our bikes with us). Together with us in the cabin is Vera, a jung russian "Babushka" (Grandmother). She only speaks Russian, but thanks to the vocabulary and small talk list that Steffi's Russian teacher translated for us, we get in contact with her. Now that the ice between us is melted, we both share our food for a lunch together in the compartment. (Steffi remembers good that Wera could not understand what she is eating at all as a Vegetarian, as well as Vera was surprised why we do not have children yet.)
Also with us in the same car are 3 travellers from Slovakia that managed to get their 3 bicycles in the waggon without any problems. They want to cycle in Mongolia. We exchange our travel experience and Dirk plays jaw's harp with them. Around 10 p.m. the train swings us into sleep, unfortunately we wake up several times during the night, since it is pretty hot in the train.
At the next morning we get to know that the air condition in our waggon is not working. Also it is not possible to open a window in the cabin, so we have to sweat during the day and Vera sleeps the most of the time. We use every possible stop to get out of the train, to catch fresh air and get some Russian ice cream (Maroschnoje). In between we (the tourists) clean the windows of our car to get a better sight during the travel. Like everytime our conductor (Provodnitza) calls us in time that we get back into "Africa", how she calls our hot carriage. In the meantime Vera has complained a lot about the temperature and she gets a bed in a different car, that has a working air condition. She says goodbye, not without giving us some sweets for our further travel on the train. Now we both have a own compartment for ourselves – what a luxury (like in the 1st class) with one drawback – the sauna is included ;-) The thermometer, next to the conductors cabin shows more than 30 degC, not only because the Samovar (hot water dispenser) is next to it, where we constantly get new hot water for instant noodles and tea. Only one time we visit the restaurant waggon to drink a cold beer. :) Apart from that we buy food food from the local "Babuschka's" that wait at many stations to sell their home grown vegetables, hot meals and other things to improve their very low pension. We try fried cheese (Syrniki) for a late breakfast (only because of the time-shift) ;-).
The second day in the train passes by quickly and also at the next morning the temperature in the car goes up quickly. Now we at least notice something like a ventilation that let some fresh breeze in our cabin. Also some clouds do appear that delays the temperature rise a bit. We spend the time with reading, writing blog, watching movies on our netbook and watching out of the window. Also this 3rd day elapses pretty fast due to time shift and the temperatures in our car. The time on the train is confusing. It does not matter where the train (on russian terrritory) is, all times in the train and at the platform shows Moscow time. Thus we always have to consider the timezone we are in to calculate local time. In the evening we chat with our Spanish cabin neighbours that also want to get off in Irkutsk. As the train will arrive at 3 am (local time) in Irkutsk we try to sleep early.
Already 1 hour before arrival the conductor wakes us by shouting "Irkutsk" which confuses us a bit as we are stopping in a station at this moment. But it will take 2 more stops until we arrive in the biggest sibirian city on time. We do not need to hurry to leave the train, there is a scheduled stop here for 45 minutes. Together with with 2 of the Spanish guys we share a taxi that brings us to the Baikalhostel that we booked before. As quiet as possible we get into our beds in the 6-bed dormitory and fall asleep.
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